Using a
spanner loosen the screws on the back of the foot board bracket (tank
unit bracket) slightly. Remember to tighten later.
If the
rails holes and bracket holes are not lining up, it may be possible
that the foot board bracket or tank unit bracket is upside down. To
fix this, use a spanner to remove and replace the bracket.
Check
batteries are fitted correctly. Batteries may need replacing.
S3 Monitor
Remove the
batter pack located behind the top of the footboard underneath the Top
Deck. You may need a screwdriver to pry out the battery pack.
Check the
connections and wiring are all in tact.
If there is
no change, please
contact
your nearest WaterRower office
S4 Monitor
Remove
the monitor back plate with a screwdriver -
View a video
Check that
the plugs are firmly connected.
A1/Indo-Row Monitor
The batteries
are positioned behind the monitor; use a Philips screw driver to
unscrew the top and bottom screws and gently lift the monitor away
from the footboard to access the battery pack. View
instructions
Check that
the dark green rubber band at the top of the clutch is connecting the
clutch to the small pulley wheel that sends information to the
monitor. If it is not, then by using tweezers, stretch the green band
around the small pulley wheel.
Remove
the Top Deck (see video) and clean the sensor and sensor disk from
dust.
Check that
the drive belt is not touching the green rubber band or the small
pulley wheel.
Check that
the plastic wheel that is sitting in the clutch is not rising up. If
it is push back in. If this happens again, then remove the top deck
panel, take the piece out and replace after spreading a little super
glue around it. After replacing the top deck panel remember to replace
the green rubber band.
Check and
make sure that the tachometer is connected to the computer.
Check
the alignment of the sensor, it may have come out of position in the
groove underneath the Top Deck and it needs to be gently put back into
position. See Sensor
Replacement instructions.
Check the
connection of the sensor and monitor.
Check the
magnets in the sensor disk. If one is missing you will need to replace
the magnet. Please
contact
your nearest WaterRower office for magnet replacements
Please check
your rowing technique. There does seem to be a problem with the read
out if someone, in the Recovery Position, doesn’t extend beyond the
foot board. (If the stroke is short, the S/R rises rapidly) Explain
that they should reach for the pulley, towards the front of the rower.
This should give a more accurate read out.
S3 Monitor
Check that
the tacho or tacho pulley is not hitting anything. If the tacho pauses
it indicates the end of the stroke and will hence register a higher
than expected stroke rate.
Check the tacho
pulley (plastic pulley above the clutch) is not loose, if it is out of
position, use a little glue to secure it back into position.
S4 Monitor
The S4
sensor is an optical sensor and on occasion if exposed to a lot of
sunlight it can affect the readings on the S4 monitor. Try rowing in a
shaded area to see if the readings are more accurate.
Check
for dust and broken teeth on the sensor disk –
View video
A1/Indo-Row
Monitor
Check
the alignment of the sensor, it may have come out of position in the
groove underneath the Top Deck and it needs to be gently put back into
position. See Sensor
Replacement instructions
Check the
connection of the sensor and monitor.
Check the
magnets in the sensor disk. If one is missing you will need to replace
the magnet. Please
contact your nearest WaterRower office for magnet replacements.
There
could be a problem with the green Tacho Belt. Where the Tacho Belt is
joined, there may be a lump, this could be causing the problem. It
also could be the Tacho Clutch Pulley. There have been problems with
nicks in the pulley, causing noises. Ask customer to inspect the area,
proceed accordingly.
A note about how
the seat is meant to work: The guide wheels on the bottom are not
meant to stay in contact with the inner part of the rail extrusions
(guides/runners). These wheels are there to make sure the seat stays
on track, so one side or the other may roll against the side but both
left and right wheels should not be against the rails at the same
time. If they do there is a spacing issue. The M1 footboard is
connected to the rails with bolts and two footboard spacers. We have
seen these black plastic bushes been left out during assembly in the
past. If these spacers are not between the tabs on the footboard and
the rails, the footboard bolts pull the rails too close together in
the center of the rail and the seat is “pinched” when it gets close to
the footboard. If guide wheels on both sides touch rails, please
confirm that the spacers are there. If the spacers are there, measure
distance between the inside edge of rail extrusions. Correct spacing
is 290mm (11.4”). If this distance is correct along the length of the
rail, an out of square seat is probably the issue. Note that guide
wheels can come off of their bearings or disintegrate when forced
against rail.
If guide wheels
are not rubbing and there is still a “squeak”: If the squeak happens
in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a
problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. An
air patch under the extrusion would cause it to be pressed down by the
seat and squeak. If the squeak happens when guide wheel hits inside of
rail guide, check that the rubber of the guide wheel is still on the
bearing. It may have lifted so it is pinching the lip of the rail
guide.
As to Lumpiness in
seat: Check for something visible on extrusion surface or load wheels
causing lumps. These parts should be kept clean. If lumps happen in
the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a problem
with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. Rail
extrusions are held on by double sided padded tape and are relatively
easy to replace. Can lumps be identified to be on one side or the
other? If so, rotate the seat and check if the lumps change sides. If
lumps also change sides there may be a broken bearing in the load
wheels of the seat. If lumps remain on original side, problem is
probably with extrusion.
Wooden SII,
SIII and SIV models squeaky/lumpy seat, troubleshooting:
A note about how
the seat is meant to work: The guide wheels on the bottom are not
meant to stay in contact with the inner part of the rail extrusions
(guides/runners). These wheels are there to make sure the seat stays
on track, so one side or the other may roll against the side but both
left and right wheels should not be against the rails at the same
time. If they do there is a spacing issue. If footboard or rear spacer
is cut too small, the rails will be pulled too close together either
at the rear or in the center of the rail. This causes the seat to be
“pinched” when it gets close to the defective part. If guide wheels on
both sides touch rails, please measure distance between the inside
edge of rail extrusions. Correct spacing is 248mm (9.7”). If this
distance is correct along the length of the rail, an out of square
seat is probably the issue. Note that guide wheels can come off of
their bearings or disintegrate when forced against rail.
If guide wheels
are not rubbing and there is still a “squeak”: If the squeak happens
in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is a
problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat. An
air patch under the extrusion would cause it to be pressed down by the
seat and squeak. If the squeak happens when guide wheel hits inside of
rail guide, check that the rubber of the guide wheel is still on the
bearing. It may have lifted so it is pinching the lip of the rail
guide.
As to Lumpiness
in seat: Check for something visible on extrusion surface or load
wheels causing lumps. These parts should be kept clean. If lumps
happen in the same spot each time up the rail, then there probably is
a problem with the rail extrusion, if problem moves, look to seat.
Rail extrusions are held on by adhesive caulking and are difficult to
replace. Can lumps be identified to be on one side or the other? If
so, rotate the seat and check if the lumps change sides. If lumps also
change sides there may be a broken bearing in the load wheels of the
seat. If lumps remain on original side, problem is probably with
extrusion. Advise replacing rail.
